{"id":325,"date":"2012-09-12T22:21:31","date_gmt":"2012-09-13T03:21:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/?p=325"},"modified":"2013-10-07T22:32:56","modified_gmt":"2013-10-08T03:32:56","slug":"swords-into-plowshares-bombs-into-spoons-a-visit-to-the-recyclers-of-napia-laos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/?p=325","title":{"rendered":"Swords into Plowshares, Bombs into Spoons: A Visit to the Recyclers of Napia, Laos"},"content":{"rendered":"

Swords into Plowshares, Bombs into Spoons:<\/strong>\u00a0A Visit to the Recyclers of Napia, Laos<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

A Lao bull wears a bell made from a piece of a bomb.<\/p><\/div>\n

We\u02bcre sharing dinner with our hosts in Napia, a small village on the savannah-like \u201cPlain of Jars\u201d in NE Laos, and turn our heads at the sudden rumble of thunder. A monsoon storm – common in the late afternoon – would mean a hasty retreat on these rutted dirt roads. Our host laughs. \u201cNo rain today,\u201d he says through our translator. \u201cThose are the bombies.\u201d Each day, as the sun sets, the daily \u201ctake\u201d – that is, the unexploded ordnance (UXO) found by detonation-teams (with metal\u00a0detectors) and local farmers – are safely detonated. \u201cThe fields are on the hill over there,\u201d says our host, waving his hand toward the setting sun. \u201cThe clearance team comes in every year. You\u02bcd think you get them all, and then every year more just come out of the soil, right in the field.\u201d He shrugs. \u201cIt\u02bcs a way of life here.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"<\/a>


A MAG team member searching for
unexploded ordnance near Napia, Laos.<\/p><\/div>\n

Napia and its 50 families, by virtue of living in an intensely bombed area from 1964-73, have created a unique relationship with shrapnel, bombies and the tons of wartime scrap and ordnance that litter the region: they survive on it.<\/p>\n

Thanks to the increasing value of metals, locals in Napia have developed a recycling industry to give the villagers a source of support above the baseline of subsistence farming, all the while ridding their soils of dangerous UXO\u02bcs. Napia invested in several small foundries, each\u00a0operated by a local family, which can melt scrap aluminum. The molten metal is poured into molds to create raw cast spoons, bangles, bottle openers, and other small implements. The molds are made by compacting wet fireplace ash into wooden frames and imbedding a spoon, or other item, into the mold to create a template. A few other Napia families formed a weaving cooperative and together, the metal and local weaving businesses have built a community center, with a welcome sign in English, to attract visitors and a rare but needed commodity: cash.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

A Napia spoon-maker shows offf her latest creation, still in the mold.<\/p><\/div>\n

The regional capital, Phonsavan, which has an airport and is the take-off point for tourists wanting to visit the pre-historic jar sites that haunt the plains, is only an hour from Napia, assuming the road is passable. Khen, our local guide and translator, knew of our long-standing relationship with MAG, and had recommended that we visit this village to get another vantage point on the war\u02bcs impact and the resiliency of a proud people. The fact that his buddy operates one of the backyard smelters just happened to be a coincidence, we\u02bcre sure!<\/p>\n

\"Defused<\/a>

Defused old mortar shells rest next to items
made from their aluminum parts<\/p><\/div>\n

Thus we not only got a guide and translator, but we were then encouraged to spend the long afternoon in the shade\u00a0of our hosts\u02bc, and Khen\u02bcs friend\u02bcs, home learning about the local collecting, recycling and distribution processes. Soon, stories about our lives are being shared, and then we\u02bcre all chipping in for a few bottles of Beer Lao (an excellent lager available everywhere in Laos). A bottle of homemade lao-lao (rice- whiskey) appears, and the cordial traditions are carried out. [At this point, one woman took charge of the smelting process and continued, most business-like, to make new spoons for the next two hours.]<\/p>\n

\"Sitting<\/a>

Sitting in front of the kiln with the molds, pouring more spoons.<\/p><\/div>\n

A few other locals join the gathering and the chatter goes up a touch in volume. Zall is madly snapping photos of faces, and everyone laughs and wants to see their image on the camera\u02bcs back panel. The molten aluminum is smoking, the pillowy clouds ease across the sky, the verdant extended rice fields shimmer in the humidity, and we are lulled into the world of Lao hospitality with the warm rich smells of earth and water-buffalo and woodsmoke.<\/p>\n

\"Bomb<\/a>

Bomb casings repurposed as house supports – the wood supports need to be \ufb01rst placed on stone so the termites don\u02bct eat into them.<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cYou stay for a meal?\u201d our host inquires. Our relaxed translator is all smiles. \u201cWe\u02bcd be honored.\u201d Soon a live duck is brought to us, and our approval apparently indicates that this is indeed dinner. No one rejects our offer to pay the market rate for the duck, or for a second case of Beer\u00a0Lao. For hors d\u02bcoeuvres, the host pours the raw, drained duck blood onto a plate, sprinkles on rice flour for thickening, and adds what smells like basil. A hush falls across the dozen or more locals and our host speaks a few words to honor his guests, and then, aluminum spoon in hand, he gives to us the first big taste. Politeness is a powerful motivator, and we nod graciously to our host with our bright-red glossy- lipped smiles. The crowd laughs, snacks are shared, someone offers another toast, and the sun edges toward the hazy hills.<\/p>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our hostess \ufb01les the rough edges of the spoons before sale.<\/p><\/div>\n

Dinner is delicious – duck (machetted into little pieces, as seems to be the practice) with ginger and chilis, duck soup, plates of aubergines, fresh bananas and other fruit, and, of\u00a0course, mountains of sticky rice. What a celebration; what a pleasure. Every day we learn from others.<\/p>\n

The thunder – the \u201cbombies\u201d – wakes us up from the fuzz of a spirited late afternoon; the reality of where and who we are is suddenly redrawn in the slant of the old sunlight. We offer thank yous and bows and smiles and hand-shakes, and pay for a bucket-load of spoons and bangles (which we will have available as a fundraiser for UXO eradication).<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The \ufb01rst spoon dips into the bowl of fresh duck blood and herbs.<\/p><\/div>\n

We offer our deepest \u201cThank You\u201d to essential programs such as Mines Advisory Group (an NGO) and UXO- Laos (Lao gov\u02bct), which provide the skilled expertise of UXO location and clearance so that generations of civilians may live more safely on their own land.<\/p>\n

\"Josh<\/a>

Josh holds a defuused bomb that was\u00a0found near Napia.<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Swords into Plowshares, Bombs into Spoons:\u00a0A Visit to the Recyclers of Napia, Laos We\u02bcre sharing dinner with our hosts in Napia, a small village on the savannah-like \u201cPlain of Jars\u201d in NE Laos, and turn our heads at the sudden … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10,2],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/325"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=325"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/325\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":362,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/325\/revisions\/362"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=325"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=325"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=325"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}