{"id":229,"date":"2011-09-24T21:01:03","date_gmt":"2011-09-24T21:01:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/?p=229"},"modified":"2013-09-24T21:04:46","modified_gmt":"2013-09-24T21:04:46","slug":"market-pho-and-the-bpaeng-neua-blues-by-zall-age-15","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/?p=229","title":{"rendered":"Market Pho and the \u201cBpaeng Neua Blues\u201d, by Zall, age 15"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Market Pho and the \u201cBpaeng Neua Blues\u201d, by Zall, age 15<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>So the giants from the West walk into a local marketplace, and every head turns our way.\u00a0 It\u2019s not a usual sight to see a family of Americans traipsing through a community market. Smoke is heavy hanging under the canopy stretched above, and one or more of my family chokes on the homegrown tobacco fumes.\u00a0 Small tables with even smaller chairs are placed around the open sided shelter in a somewhat orderly fashion and near the center table is a woman bent over a colossal steaming pot throwing herbs and garnishes into the behemoth of a vessel.\u00a0 After the initial shock of four American intruders being present, commotion erupted again and the daily arguing, haggling, and chatting of the town\u2019s most recent gossip ensued, mixed with talk of the strange new travelers (\u201cfalang\u201d in Lao) now present in their midst.\u00a0 We begin our walk over to the tables set up for breakfast, through the herb tables, past the meat section (trying to ignore the various organs, meats, birds, rodents, and dogs), and over to the great pot stewing in the center.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_230\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/DSC02229.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-230\" class=\"size-full wp-image-230\" alt=\"Eating breakfast pho, with grandma, in the Xam Tai market in NE Laos.\" src=\"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/DSC02229.jpg\" width=\"1000\" height=\"766\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/DSC02229.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/DSC02229-300x229.jpg 300w, https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/DSC02229-391x300.jpg 391w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-230\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eating breakfast pho, with grandma, in the Xam Tai market in NE Laos.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The woman cooking looks up to us with a confused look and says something in her local dialect that we don\u2019t understand.\u00a0 \u201c<i>Sii pho gai?\u201d<\/i> my mom asks.\u00a0 The plump woman breaks out into a warm smile to reveal her horrible teeth and tilts her head back and releases a gale of amused laughter.\u00a0 She sits us down at the nearest picnic-style table and heads back to her cooking table, chuckling to herself all the way.\u00a0 As she adds more ingredients to the pot and telling everyone who would listen about what had just occurred, she takes out the clear bag of monosodium glutamate.\u00a0 \u201c<i>Bo! Bo sai bpaeng neua!<\/i>\u201d My mom manages to say just in time to stop the cackling woman from dropping two heaping tablespoons of the white crystallized substance into each bowl.\u00a0 The woman looks at my mom with even more disbelief and breaks out into an even louder howling.\u00a0 The whole crowd around us bursts into laughter, and soon we joined in.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_231\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Picture-030.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-231\" class=\" wp-image-231   \" alt=\"\" src=\"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Picture-030.jpg\" width=\"1000\" height=\"892\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Picture-030.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Picture-030-300x267.jpg 300w, https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/09\/Picture-030-336x300.jpg 336w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-231\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another pho experience; this photo is from 2007.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>After several minutes of the whole marketplace roaring with laughter, we wipe the accumulated tears from our eyes, and the cook serves us with four huge steaming piled bowls of chicken pho (pronounced <i>pfuh guy<\/i>).\u00a0 Pho is a noodle soup with chunks of meat and an assortment of local herbs and spices dropped in.\u00a0 You\u2019re supposed to add various sauces that are provided on the table, but seeing as we can\u2019t really read the labels on the bottles anyway (and they\u2019re mostly salty), we tend to opt out of putting any of them into our bowls.\u00a0 There is also always a huge heaping pile of fresh lettuce, mints, basil, and every other imaginable leaf that you are supposed to eat along with the soup.\u00a0 Unfortunately, the leaves have been washed in local tap water or river water, which however safe it is for the locals to eat, we can\u2019t because of all the different diseases that are in Laos\u2019 water that aren\u2019t in ours at home.<\/p>\n<p>Dad took the first bite and gave us a look.\u00a0 He mouthed the word <i>salty<\/i>. Our whole family groaned with disappointment.\u00a0 When we asked for no MSG, the lady had assumed we would want more salt to compensate.\u00a0 Caught up in our laughter, we had forgotten to ask for her not to add salt either (\u201c<i>bo sai gaena<\/i>\u201d).\u00a0 The whole family drooped our heads; we do not like the copious amounts of salt and MSG that the Lao are so fond of.\u00a0 Regretfully, I looked down at my soup to discover that I had also forgot to ask for no cilantro (\u201c<i>bo sai pak sinnali<\/i>\u201d), a thing that I despise in my food. Even the word \u201ccilantro\u201d makes my skin crawl. <i>Oh well,<\/i> I thought and gave into my hunger, doing my best to ignore the dreadful taste of my arch enemy vegetable and the salty soup. <i>Next time, I\u2019ll remember to ask&#8230;.<\/i><\/p>\n<p><i>&#8230;maybe&#8230;<\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Market Pho and the \u201cBpaeng Neua Blues\u201d, by Zall, age 15 So the giants from the West walk into a local marketplace, and every head turns our way.\u00a0 It\u2019s not a usual sight to see a family of Americans traipsing &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/?p=229\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/229"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=229"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/229\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":232,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/229\/revisions\/232"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=229"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=229"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=229"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}