{"id":500,"date":"2010-02-05T19:16:39","date_gmt":"2010-02-06T00:16:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/?p=500"},"modified":"2014-04-05T19:30:10","modified_gmt":"2014-04-06T00:30:10","slug":"welcome-to-ban-n-treasured-secret-of-houaphon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/?p=500","title":{"rendered":"Welcome to Ban N——-: Treasured Secret of Houaphon"},"content":{"rendered":"

Welcome to Ban N——-: Treasured Secret of Houaphon\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nope.\u00a0 We won\u2019t give you the precise location of the \u201cX\u201d on our treasure map; advertising remote, precious enclaves of talent and beauty eventually tears the \u201cShangri-\u201d away from the \u201cLa.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Weaver<\/a>

Weaver wearing her large shaman cloth.<\/p><\/div>\n

A day\u2019s visit of this village begins in the Houaphon Province\u2019s provincial capital, Xam Neua (population 35,000) where we rent a vehicle, driver, and for both purposes of business and pleasure, a translator.\u00a0 After a chatty hour on the twisty, paved one-lane \u201chighway,\u201d we veer onto a dirt path, splash through a shallow river and then drive for another hour or more. The single-track dirt lane follows a windy creek up a narrow, sparsely populated valley. Finally the narrow valley opens up to a wider set of verdant rice fields and this 50-house village.<\/p>\n

We are fortunate that our 18-year-old translator\u2019s parents live in Ban N—— \u2013 his status as a translator and \u201ctourist guide\u201d grant him a certain standing in the community, and his personal knowledge and contacts open a window that is unique for westerners.\u00a0 Good travelers aren\u2019t bashful and we swing that window open, taking full advantage of his personal connections.<\/p>\n

\"Weaver<\/a>

Weaver cutting a scarf off her loom for us.<\/p><\/div>\n

We take the first half-hour of our visit to wander through the muddy village, greeting the women, children, and a few older men (the young men were in the rice fields).\u00a0 Maren had remembered to bring photos of the weavers holding their artwork taken from our previous visit, and we suddenly get caught in the center of a flurry of women and children trying to see each photo as we connect the face in the photo with the face in the crowd.\u00a0 We also offer photos to the weavers of some Eugene-locals who had purchased their individual pieces.\u00a0 Every photo seems particularly entertaining, and everyone laughs and chats.\u00a0 Needless to say, we have no difficulty getting them to pose with their healing cloths on this visit, and I trust that they are looking forward to our return next month, new photos in hand.<\/p>\n

\"Street<\/a>

Street scene in Ban N—— upon our arrival.<\/p><\/div>\n

Ban N—– looks similar to other Tai Daeng villages.\u00a0 Houses sit on wood posts 4-5 feet above ground; the walls are made of woven bamboo slats and wooden boards and the house\u2019s interior are often divided by a curtain or flimsy bamboo panel into 2 or 3 rooms, allowing some privacy for sleeping.\u00a0 Each home has a pad of rock built into the floor, upon which the hearth is stoked and hot meals are prepared; if it is early morning or evening, smoke fills the upper rafters and finds its proper\u00a0 vent.\u00a0 Under each home, in the cooler shade, sits at least one bed-sized loom, often next to a wooden ox-cart, a builders\u2019 stash of bamboo, or racks of drying corn.\u00a0 A woman more than likely sits on a wood bench flicking the loom\u2019s shuttle back and forth and tying off colors of silk threads as she creates a traditional healing cloth.\u00a0 A packed dirt track, about 20 feet wide, runs down the center of the village.<\/p>\n

\"Weaver<\/a>

Weaver working on a new skirt with supplemental warp designs.<\/p><\/div>\n

We admire the half-woven shawls set on the looms under the houses, share a drink or two with the family and friends of our translator, and, after paying respect to his parents, are led to a community room \u2013 the village\u2019s one building that is made of cement and not bamboo and wood.\u00a0 About two dozen weavers sit in a semi-circle in front of us, and in the center of the room are perhaps 60 healing cloths and other local textiles of all colors \u2013 from light lavender and peach pastels to dark red and rich golds. In Laos, individual villages often focus on developing a certain talent and status regarding that talent.\u00a0 We have visited villages that specialize in knife-making, basket-weaving, or shaman-cloth weaving (see Newsletter #2 about our visit to a weaving village, Muang V—, that specialized in shaman cloths).\u00a0 Ban N—–, for generations, has specialized in healing cloths, and their beautiful and near-flawless work, a stack of which sits before us, is renown in Laos.<\/p>\n

\"Farmer<\/a>

Farmer returning home with his tools.<\/p><\/div>\n

Choosing the best for Above the Fray<\/b> is never an easy task, especially given the wide variety of designs and colors.\u00a0 If there were no rules we would buy most everything \u2013 not only for the beauty of the art, but also for the smiles and hearts of the artists in the room.\u00a0 However, business and budgets interfere, and we embark on our routine of deliberate inspection.\u00a0 Some textiles, indeed, are more \u201cflaw-free\u201d than others, and some have more sophisticated and thoughtful color and design-play.\u00a0 Some have cruder edges; a common flaw is too-tight a pull on one side of the warp that produces, when ceremoniously displayed as wall-art, a decidedly banana-shaped textile (making it, perhaps, a beautiful shawl, but cattywampus wall art\u2026).<\/p>\n

\"Weavers<\/a>

Weavers displaying their cloths for purchase. Maren has some tough choices to make.<\/p><\/div>\n

We are looking expressly for the woven silks that have an inner \u201cglow\u201d – the cloths that hold all the elements together to create one precious unique expression that took generations to hone.\u00a0 From what we have seen as we visit other weaving villages and the major city markets in Luang Prabang and Vientiane, Laos\u2019 capital, (where the majority of the village-made cloths eventually end up through a chain of distributors), no village weaves more profound, precise, and \u201cglowing\u201d healing cloths than Ban N——. \u00a0After two hours of comparing, selecting, gently bargaining, photographing (thank you, Zall!), laughing, and completing our business, we pick up our armload of purchases, say goodbye for the umpteenth time, and, under a now-threatening sky, clamber back in the vehicle.<\/p>\n

\"Young<\/a>

Young weaver displaying the woman side of her “man\/woman” healing cloth.<\/p><\/div>\n

We discovered in Ban N—– that one of their finest young weavers, of whom we had a picture from the previous year, had just married and had moved to an unmapped village a few kilometers up the track.\u00a0 A half-hour later we found ourselves under a tin roof, during a sudden downpour, sharing photos and chatting with the beautiful, now-married young weaver and her proud husband.\u00a0 This village did not do as much weaving, but did they have some baskets!\u00a0 Another \u201cX\u201d on the map\u2026.<\/p>\n

We still juggle in our minds the juxtaposition of what appears to be a poor, humble mountain village creating, under each home like a foundation, the most jaw-droppingly complex and color-savvy woven silk art.\u00a0 The heart of these fine people is not in their assets or their access to goods and services.\u00a0 The heart is rather tied to culture and tradition, their beliefs and their families, the providence of a tough land and the talents created from their minds and fingers.<\/p>\n

\"Weaver<\/a>

Weaver shyly displaying her “man\/woman” healing cloth.<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Welcome to Ban N——-: Treasured Secret of Houaphon\u00a0 Nope.\u00a0 We won\u2019t give you the precise location of the \u201cX\u201d on our treasure map; advertising remote, precious enclaves of talent and beauty eventually tears the \u201cShangri-\u201d away from the \u201cLa.\u201d A … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,22],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/500"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=500"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/500\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":517,"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/500\/revisions\/517"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=500"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=500"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/hilltribeart.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=500"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}